TECHNIQUES & PATTERNS
KADHWAAlso known as Kadwa or Kadhua, is among the most complicated and laborious Banarasi techniques of weaving sarees employed by our artisans. In Kadhwa Sarees, no cutting work at the back is required as in cutwork or phekwa sarees since all the motifs are woven separately. Using this technique, any number of colors, size and designs of motifs and textures can be woven on a single saree. It takes a much longer labour time to make 1 kadhwa saree as compared to other techniques, resulting in a more vigorous pattern, giving a clear and firm design.
CUTWORKAlso known as phekwa, is the widely used banarasi handloom weaving technique wherein the motifs are woven together as oppossed to kadhwa saress, thus taking lesser time in completing a saree. Upon weaving, a large proportion of the silk thread is found at the back of the saree where there is no motif at the front. These threads at the back are then cut, once the saree is weaved. Cutwork sarees are made using all types of silk yarns and almost in all patterns.
TANCHOIIt is one of the intricate weaving technique using one or two warp threads and multiple coloured wefts. The famous motifs are of flowers, peacocks and parrots and known for its self designs. Tanchoi sarees are generally made in small and complex patterns resulting in a very soft fabric with no cutting work required at the back.
KADIYALThis technique incorporates silk yarns of multiple colors in the warp to make the border of the saree contrasting to the body color. This technique requires a number of switches in the weft shuttle during the weaving of the saree and careful dyeing and setting up of the warp.
BUTIDARThis is a design which is locally well received as Angoor Bail, Gojar Bail, Lutar Bail, Khulta Bail, Baluchar Bail, Latiffa Butti, Mehrab Bail, Kalma Buti, Patti Buti, Mehrab Anchal, Baluchar Buta, etc. Banarasi sarees having small separate motifs all over the saree are referred to as butidar.
MEENAKARIMeenakari sarees are made using different colors of silk threads including zari in the weft resulting in multiple colored motifs. Meenakari sarees can be made using both the cutwork and kadhwa technique of hand-weaving.
JANGLAThis is one of the oldest and most complex weaving pattern of banaras using the kadhwa technique of making. The designs include floral, meenakari jaals, and other all over patterns using resham threads and zari.
JAMAWAARJamawaar sarees are also referred to as tanchoi having intricate small designs with no cutting work at the back. These sarees are known for its sophisticated paisley motifs.